Los Angeles, the place I now live in. America’s second largest city and cesspool of incompetent governance. But I have to say, this place got some good eats. For supposedly a global metropolis, this city feels like a sleepy suburb forced to stay up beyond its bedtime. So when I look for spicy meat and bread, you know, the white whale of the drunk, my go-to is Biryani Kabab House.

It’s April 21 2019. I’ve just about recovered from a late night of 4:20 rocking out to the doom metal titans Yob. So after a swim and motorcycle ride in the day, it’s time for grub. My first suggestion is Biryani Kabob house and my wife who is also a fan, doesn’t resist at all.

Sacrificial Lambs

A small hole-in-the-wall on 3rd and Vermont in LA’s Little Bangladesh, this place truly lives up to its name. The owner is an enterprising Bangladeshi immigrant who had moved around the world including Germany and France. He tells me that nothing beats the US, especially Los Angeles. He’s also a self-taught cook who learned techniques beyond the classic Bangladeshi methods.

During my first visit to the place a year ago, my obvious choice was the lamb biryani. It would be to test the place. Tough chewy lamb is a good red flag of owners who have lost passion for the game. The biryani does not disappoint. Less spicy than the Hyderabadi biryanis that I am used to, it’s a rich mix of the juiciest lamb falling off the bone, the highest grade basmati rice and raita to accompany the dish. It reminded me more of Persian and Afghan pulaos. I highly recommend ordering this dish when you visit.

Over many frequent visits, I have tried other items on the menu. The roast chicken curry, kadhai chicken and hariyali chicken curries stand out. The fish curry and the chana masala are flavors you will never have experienced in the run-of-the-mill Indian restaurant in LA’s strip malls. What is notable here is the naan. It’s none of that reheated crap most lazy desi restaurants serve. This is freshly baked and is one of the best I’ve had in the country. Order one to sop up the curry.

Today I order a black pepper shrimp curry. I have made so many trips to this place that they tolerated my request for this off-menu item. It’s the juiciest shrimp in a mildly spicy curry. Perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday with flavors of home.